Who is Chopova Lowena?

lessons on sustainability, utility, and truly "repurposed" collections

Mar 06, 2024

Reflecting on this past fashion month, I’m inspired by a recurring thought about the pace of fashion and runway shows. I can’t believe designers do this TWICE a year?! As I grow older and years pass by faster, the speed at which brands are expected to produce entirely new collections and shows seems increasingly frenetic and unsustainable. Not only does it feel excessive, but I can’t help but feel it is a pressure of consumerism and capitalism put on designers to dole out two collections a year, rather than a reflection of the creative desire a clothing designer might have given themselves with which they are inspired to create seasonally inclined collections (which, yeah, it totally is). Of course, not all brands and designers adhere to these rules, and the ones who manage to find the balance between market demands and their internal pace of creation often produce some of the most compelling and enduring work in the industry. One that has stood out to me this season is Chopova Lowena.

You may not be sure how to pronounce the name (chuh-poe-vuh low-eh-nuh), but you’ve definitely seen their iconic kilt-like carabiner skirts on everyone from celebrities to the niche fashion girlies you follow. Founded by Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena, also alumni of Central Saint Martins like designers I’ve previously discussed such as Susan Fang and Simone Rocha, Chopova Lowena merges folklore with sportswear while placing a strong emphasis on sustainability and craftsmanship. These two inspirations are the basis of each of their collections, drawing one folkloric theme and one sports theme on which to base their craft for the season. Their design philosophy is deeply anthropological, rooted in the observation and modernization of traditional textiles, crafts, and techniques. Through a nuanced blending of worlds and themes, they integrate references from Bulgarian folklore to 1980s rock climbing, striving to honor these influences while creating something entirely hybrid.

There’s nothing sexier than ethical fashion, and sustainability forms the foundational backbone of their brand ethos. They prioritize the use of recycled materials and deadstock textiles, often repurposing items like pillowcases and aprons. These materials are sourced by Chopova and Lowena in Bulgaria with the help of Chopova’s mother. There’s also nothing I love more than fusion fashion, that is, clothing inspired by cultural heritage and contemporary styles. Though the duo met while studying at Central Saint Martins, Chopova grew up in New Jersey (yerrrr, Jersey girl!) with Bulgarian parents, and Lowena is from the U.K. They came together after discovering their mutual affection for all things handmade. Chopova told Vogue in 2019, “Growing up, I had a very confused cultural identity. My parents were very ‘We’re going to be American… But when I was in high school, I found folkloric books [about Bulgaria] and really loved them.” A tale as old as Millenial-Gen Z first-gen American kids grappling with more than one cultural identity. Relatable.

Chopova Lowena shows once a year and reveals a lookbook for every other collection, a format which they told AnOther in February is both a savvy financial decision and a practice that allows them the freedom to do everything they want, including experiment with other forms of documentation like photography. Their Fall 2023 collection, inspired by 70s skiing and Georgian fashion, gave rise to the “Conversations with Angels” zine, a modern-day reinterpretation of Hans Christian Andersen's "The Snow Queen," featuring Chloë Sevigny and an ensemble cast in Chopova Lowena's AW23 collection, captured in fantastical photos depicting a fairy tale struggle between good and evil, envisioned by poet Precious Okoyomon and brought to life through the lens of Charlotte Wales and art direction by Jamie Reid. Chopova Lowena's deliberate approach to fashion design enables them to breathe life into their collections well beyond their initial debut presentation.

I first encountered Chopova Lowena through oldloserinbrooklyn back in 2021 (ily Mandy Lee 😭), and was immediately captivated by their juxtaposed aesthetics. Their designs embody a perfect equilibrium, blending delicate nuances with fervent expressions. Their garments are a fusion of precision tailoring and chaotic prints, resulting in masterpieces of controlled chaos.I know this isn’t the first time I've said this, and you may be tired of hearing it, but I love it when opposites come together. Their collection themes always hit me right in the "there are two wolves inside of you," from their Spring/Summer 2024 collection inspired by skateparks and the Flora Day Festival to their most recent Fall 2024 collection inspired by sailing and wartime weddings.

Despite their defined inspirations of sportswear and folklore, there are clear influences of English style that contribute to establishing their brand identity. Specifically, historical London fashion plays a significant role, particularly tied to the punk movement, enabling them to delve into DIY culture and theatricality. Their carabiner kilts are a product of these influences and their two material obsessions: vintage fabrics and hardware. Utility and survival then also become tenets of Chopova Lowena. Take their Sofia Bag which aesthetically feels futuristic with its sleek leather and hobo silhouette, but is crafted with utility in mind as its features double as aesthetic details. For instance, pockets on the face of the bag are made to hold a notebook, pen, comb, keys, nail file, and, of course, a carabiner. Their pieces then become not only part of a person's wardrobe but also a tool for creation and survival (girl survival).

When the creation of clothing is considered craft and not production, it becomes obvious which brands are proud of the work they’ve created and the practices they have enacted to do so. To them, the constraints of a bi-annual collection bear the same love as a sweater forged by the skilled hands of a grandmother eager to finish it before their grandchild's birthday. It's not solely about meeting market demands for novelty; rather, it's about establishing a gestational cycle of nurturing and birthing ideas.

Chopova Lowena is sure to go down in history as a cult brand and I hope I can die an old woman with a vast collection of (at that point vintage) pieces that I hand down to my heirs as a cherished inheritance or that is auctioned of in the estate sale of the famed madwoman writer and poet, Natasha Lopez.

Who is Chopova Lowena?

lessons on sustainability, utility, and truly "repurposed" collections

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