10 Esoteric Brands for Esoteric Girls
+ baby thoughts on fashion as a means of social communication
es·o·ter·ic / adjective - intended for or likely to be understood by only a small number of people with a specialized knowledge or interest.
As most thoughts spawn in this day and age, I saw a girl’s TikTok and scrolled through a comments section full of people not understanding her linguistic genius, and it got me thinking about what it means to be esoteric. In my research to try and understand what an esoteric girl looks like I turned to our generations finest search engines; Pinterest and TikTok, but I was dissapointed to find no solid answers. Pinterest seems to think an esoteric girl wears frilly clothes, lots of white, maybe listens to Lana del Rey, owns a bunch of crystals and is learning to read tarot, which in the context of esotericism could make sense, yeah, but didn’t feel like a solid visual representation. Then I realized I was asking the wrong question, an esoteric girl is not an aesthetic, it is a philosophy of life. TikTok understood this a little better in terms that it didn’t show me what esoteric girls look like, but how they act and perform to the world around them. To be an esoteric girl is not to appear some way, it is to be some way, to act some way, and in many cases to gatekeep that which you love.
I was recommended a recent episode of Nymphette Alumni from my friend Carla on the intellectualisation of fashion, and while listening I was prompted to think about how we communicate through our clothing, the social messaging of fashion. How does one communicate “esoteric girl” through clothing? To have the ability to pinpoint a look as “esoteric girl fashion” is contradictory to the definition of esoteric. Therefore, “esoteric girl” cannot fall victim to the trend, because once it isn’t niche it isn’t esoteric. I’ve concluded its an indefinable fashion, and so I’ve taken a different approach to this list of brands, which one day might be rendered obsolete:
The only aesthetic factor I took into consideration is that the brands listed are imbued with an air of mystery, like a black and white film, which is why most of these work with neutrals.
It’s not about having, it’s about knowing. So, if you want to be an esoteric girl, you gotta study up on that which nobody else really knows or understands. You don’t even need to buy or own these brands, just know about them as a specific few currently do. Lean into your admiration of them and their ethos.
Vivi Wei
Elevated basics like those from Vivi Wei subtly communicate that you know how to experiment with the foundational. Led by Vivien, Vivi Wei values transparency and ethical consciousness in fashion production. Based in South East London, they create high-quality garments in limited batches, utilizing innovative fabric reuse methods to prioritize sustainability and quality over quantity.
Freya McKee
Existing somewhere in between coquette, academia, and office siren, Freya McKee is an alchemist of structure and distress. Freya McKee, a London-based designer, creates handmade slow fashion knitwear, offering made-to-order pieces and one-of-a-kind creations from second-hand yarns, allowing for unique and personalized garments.
REIKE NEN
REIKE NEN, a Seoul-based women's footwear and accessories brand, reimagines classic designs for the modern woman, balancing opposing elements to embody sensuality and ease. Founded in 2010 by creative director Rei (Yoon Hongmi), the brand's handmade creations reflect a fusion of past and future, masculine and feminine, while elevating comfort and style. It’s all about quality and effortless fashion.
Melissa Tida
If I agreed with anything about the results of my “esoteric girl” Pinterest search, it’s that esoteric girls would wear underwear as clothes. Melissa Tida, queen of bloomers, handmakes their bloomers in London.
My Mum Made It
What does an esoteric girl wear on their days off? To allow space for other choices in the day, it’s probably My Mum Made It. Born from a vision of chic comfort, My Mum Made It, founded by Australian designer Nyree Leckenby, offers premium loungewear and ready-to-wear fashion with a focus on fabric health and style. Originating from Leckenby's market days selling hand-made dresses from thrifted bed sheets, the brand blends nostalgia with sustainability, using recycled materials in both clothing and packaging.
Maroske Peech
Due to the nature of Maroske Peech’s production, most of their pieces come in extremely limited batches. A piece that exists only a few times bears the markings worthy of an esoteric girls closet. They utilize reclaimed deadstock fabric in limited quantities from Japanese suppliers, resulting in each piece being singular and special. With a dedication to reinvention and creativity, their slow production process fosters an everchanging, collectible nature, allowing them to offer limited, distinctive pieces outside the realm of fast fashion.
Luz Muerta
Esoteric girls aren’t afraid to jump into a pool of spring water with their clothes on which makes Luz Muerta a perfect match (as pictured above.) Initially a Los Angeles-based venture by Luna Farina and Jon Arbelaiz, now based in Barcelona, Luz Muerta crafts small batch, made-to-order, collections and one-off pieces with a focus on minimalist basics designed for longevity.
Jane Wade
Even esoteric girls have jobs and Jane Wade is what they wear to the office. Based in NYC, Jane Wade blends workwear and office attire, prioritizing quality techniques and colorful storytelling in every detail. Embracing a playful yet thoughtful perspective on luxury, the brand creates segmentary pieces designed to adapt to the wearer's needs, redefining the purpose of garments through innovative use of color and visual proportion.
Lado Bokuchava
Lado Bokuchava, the eponymous Georgian label by designer Lado Bokuchava, redefines modernity with careful observation and curiosity about the world, society, and culture. Prioritizing pattern making and comfort, each collection offers unique identities for every body type, characterized by unexpected cuts, vibrant color combinations, and sustainable materials.
Lauren Perrin
French-born and London-based, designer Lauren Perrin emerges as a trailblazing force in fashion, infusing her designs with glamour and psychedelic allure. Founded in 2020, the brand is recognized for its figure-enhancing silhouettes and motifs inspired by the aesthetics of the 1970s. Lauren Perrin uses recycled polyester jersey for much of her collection and produces in limited quantities on a made-to-order basis at the brand's London atelier.
What does your esotericism look like?